Amanwana facilities include a library, a gift shop and the Jungle Cove Massage area located by the sea under a roof of shady tamarind trees. There's also the bamboo-roofed music pavilion, a cozy and private nook for those musical moments. A fresh-water dipping pool is set in a forested grotto of coral-rock cliffs.

There is life beyond the sundeck. Moyo is a haven for hikers and nature lovers, with a number of walks beginning directly from the camp. Further afield is an excursion to a series of spring-fed, limestone waterfalls.

Amanwana's pristine waters and all-but- untouched reefs, just steps away from your tent, are a treasure trove for snorkelers and divers. The sport fishing is superb, with several vessels reserved for anglers. For your castaway days, three deserted beaches are just a short sail away.

Favored by the Flores Sea, set on a faraway nature reserve, Amanwana is a seductive retreat, an island adventure made for the selective few.

At Amanwana's open- air dining room, the mood is purely tropical, with a Sumbawan epil wood floor, a soaring bamboo roof and pillars of solid coconut. Asian and Western fare are served for breakfast, lunch and dinner. At the weekly barbecue, tables lit by oil lamps are set close by the sea.

Amanwana's tents, in ocean-front and jungle settings, are nothing like the canvas lean-tos of your youth. Each luxurious, 58-square-meter living space starts with a solid- wall foundation, followed by a soaring, waterproof exterior and an interior covering of canvas.

Each Amanwana tent is air-conditioned, with hardwood flooring, a white- on-white, king-size bed wreathed in wedding-lace netting, wheat-colored divans, a writing desk, a large bath- room with twin vanities, Indonesian island artwork and banks of windows.